“Are the chalets real?” asked one of the Europeans on the shuttle from Denver airport to the other European who had previously been to Vail. The previous visitor took a moment to think about what to say. “Well, no,” he said. “But they’re very nice.”
When devotees of Colorado mountain resorts tick off their favorites, the ones that grew out of old mining towns and feel authentically Western like Telluride or celebrity hotspot Aspen often take top spots. (Aspen did start out as a silver mining town.) Vail came on the scene in 1962 purpose built by developers Pete Seibert, Bill “Sarge” Brown and Bob Parker, Army veterans and skiiers who had trained nearby during World War II and discovered the beauty of the mountains surrounding. The idea after they returned to the area after the war was to build a resort emulating mountain towns in the Swiss and Austrian Alps. So that’s what they did.
Walking through the cluster of Alpine chalet/Tyrolean style buildings with steep gabled roofs to shed snow, decorative wood carvings, arched doorways, white-washed stucco walls, “Z-style” shutters and timbered facades, you practically hear the song “Edelweiss” in your head. But if Vail Village isn’t authentic-”Disneyland,” according to one naysayer- it is atmospheric, compact and convenient with easily walkable good shops and restaurants slotted in among the Alpine copies and more contemporary Mountain Rustic architecture. And it is surrounded by stunning mountain scenery along with some drop-ins in town: the watch for bear signs should be taken literally as a few of us discovered standing on the covered bridge watching a mama bear and cubs hanging out in a nearby tree, checking out the supply of trout prized by fishing enthusiasts in Gore Creek.
Out of the village, there are, naturally, a range of outdoor activities in all of that rugged nature. I can’t judge the ski potential having tried and failed three times to master the sport including watching four year olds whiz past me in the station to station ski school in Crested Butte but from the official stats and the elite athletes who reportedly come here to ski, it’s clearly substantial: 5,317 acres of skiable terrain; seven wide open alpine basin Back Bowls described as legendary; two gondolas bringing skiiers up Vail Mountain above 10,000 feet in winter. Perhaps related: even pro athletes flock to Vail Health for procedures with its well known knee specialist. (For the rest of us, the center has a new program Vail Healthspan to evaluate and encourage longevity.)
Back on the mountain, summer is big here with those gondolas bringing hikers up the mountain to the trails but as one of my adventure activity guides told me while on a 4X4 climb up a different mountain path, fall is particularly rewarding when the forests of aspens erupt in waves of brilliant gold. That tour called Peak Indulgence offered by Vail 4X4 Tours started this summer and combines a climb by that vehicle up to 12,000 feet by a choice of trails—from mildly rocky to wild teenager level, bumpy thrill ride. The idea is to ascend to the summit of Hornsilver Mountain and then take in the panoramic views of six mountain ranges: Vail’s Gore Range, Collegiate Peaks, Flat Tops, Elk Mountains, Sawatch Range, and Tenmile Range while lunching on a selection of charcuterie at the top. It’s a spectacular climb but if you go in late summer’s monsoon season, you might actually get one, which we did, requiring a quick and just as pleasing switch to a ground level pond side picnic in an area frequented by moose.
To get to the beginning of the trail, you pass the meadows where the Vail visionaries trained in the 1940’s and Minturn, a former railroad town with 100+ year old houses that belonged to residents either working the railroads or mining for gold and silver in the surrounding hills. (And home to the restaurant The Crazy Chicken serving fried Twinkies, a local specialty.) This was also the route for an excursion with Paragon Guides: hiking with llamas through Maloit Park; the trained, sweet natured llamas Billy (the Kid) and Maverick serving as companions, carriers of provisions and raingear and objects of delight for other hikers on the range of beginner to advanced trails.
Back in the village, there is a typical high end ski resort shopping mix: art galleries, jewelry, home decor plus shops ranging from high end international like Brunello Cuchinelli and Moncler to Western shops like Wild Bill’s Emporium and KidSport for kids’ athletic gear and toys. Restaurants run the gamut from the funky Bully Ranch for post activity burgers to the nearly 50 year old classic that everyone goes to for a special meal: Sweet Basil serving scrumptious New American/international creations such as Ahi Tuna Tostaditas with whipped avocado, yuzu kosho, shiso and red corn masa and Creekstone Filet Mignon with crispy tallow tots, grilled swiss chard, black plums, aged balsamic and bordelaise.
On the other side of the building facing the creek, Sweet Basil’s more casual, wood-fired sibling Mountain Standard also turns out some very tasty dishes such as Heirloom Tomato & Peach Salad with cornbread croutons, honey whipped yogurt, grilled peach vinaigrette, cucumber, mint and basil; Rotisserie Piri Piri Chicken and Harissa Grilled Mahi Mahi with asparagus, quinoa, smoked tomato and sherry vinaigrette and quinoa “crispies.” (As a bonus: it’s open for walk-ins until 10 for late dinners, helpful for attendees of the summer concerts and Vail Dance Festival held in July and August at The Amp-the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater named for the late former President; he and wife Betty were area residents.) Also new on the dining scene: Zuma Vail, the local version of the international hit, which opened in June and turns out sparkling sushi and robata specialties in a lively, DJ propelled room and La Brasserie, for classics like Salade Niçoise, Steak Frites or Moules Marinières. (But if you’re a fan of Tarte Tatin, don’t order it here.)
Checking in: It would be easy to imagine that you really are in the Alps if you check into Sonnenalp Vail, the hotel at the entrance to the Village that really typifies Bavarian style. There’s a reason: the Faessler family who owned an inn in Ofterschwang, Germany that is now a full scale mountain resort branched out and opened this one in 1979; family members are still running it. There’s an Alpine sleigh in the reception area, friendly dirndl-clad, German accented receptionists on the desk and wood paneled, rustic decor in the rooms. And if you want fondue, raclette or Wiener Schnitzel, they’re available in the also wood-filled hotel restaurant Swiss Chalet.
Up the street, the tone is Mountain Designer Sleek in The Sebastian Vail, a boutique hotel and residence club that opened in 2011, the same year that Michelle Obama and daughters had a very good time here according to her thank you letter posted above reception. There are 84 rooms, 23 suites and 36 residences, some of which are available for bookings. Get one. Apart from being spacious-ranging from one to four bedrooms, 1100-2100 square feet- the residences come with a full, modern kitchen, contemporary decor and a balcony overlooking the mountains. Also on property: Bloom Spa for High Altitude Adjustment Massages and the sophisticated Gambit Bar where a mix of locals and guests hang out for live music from Wednesdays through Saturdays, cocktails and snacks from a lineup of artisan Colorado cheeses to a Prime Rib French Dip. And given the see and be seen feeling, it’s not surprising that when Zuma came to Vail, it opened here.
